Tuesday 14 August 2012


Sensory Experiences of Kibeti

Sounds
  • The dawn song of the Black Crowned Tchagra.
  • The crow, bleat, grunt and low of truly free range animals.
  • The constant thump, thump of women pounding manioc.
  • The singing, always someone singing – women around an evening fire, the chant of children's games, a man's lone voice in the dead of night, accompanied by a slow drum.
Smells
  • Regular whiffs of sour manioc, freshly dug, drying or cooking.
  • Familiar bushfire – the scour and clearing before planting a field.
  • River water – reedy and slightly fishy.
  • Farm animal dung.
Sights
  • Huge rolling green hills, fading into a haze of a permanent smokey sky.
  • Two identical flat red discs hanging on opposite horizons, one a setting sun, the other a rising full moon.
  • The detail and pattern of colourful wax print cloth and braided or twisted hair.
  • Food tinged orange by palm oil.
Tastes
  • A diet of spinach, spinach and more – same but different – spinach accompanied by rice, alternating with sweet potatoes.
  • The pleasurable malty golden liquid of our closely guarded ration of COLD Primus beer (rock on solar power!).
Sensations
  • Perpetual greeting and shaking of rough dry hands.
  • Constantly dirty feet – black from black dust.
  • Sore bums from hard seats.
  • The delightful feeling of sun crisp clean clothes and a just washed body (for an initial brief ten minutes.)

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